Sonja Vlaar
For thousands of years mankind has tried to put a stop to the natural aging process. Cleopatra is said to have bathed in donkey milk in order to preserve its beauty as long as possible. And today nothing has changed. If you believe the beautiful appearance of advertising, it is easy to cheat the aging with the right cream. But we all know that it is not that easy, of course.
Anti-aging trends
Anti-Pollution - CO2 particles are an issue especially in cities and allow the skin to age faster. Anti-Pollution protection is supposed to better protect the skin from carbon dioxide particles.
Anti-pollen - A new trend from Asia are skin creams that reduce the penetration of pollen through the skin through an anti-pollen barrier. Often combined with anti-pollution protection.
Pre- and probiotics - Not only in yoghurt or in our intestinal flora make useful bacteria sense. Our skin also has a microbial flora, on which colonize a variety of germs, which can be specifically strengthened by pre- and probiotics in skin care products.
stem Cells - Stem cells are cells of origin. They can form all cell types of the body and multiply indefinitely. In case of injuries, they take care of the repair of the skin and they can also produce new stem cells. Also, plants have stem cells that serve to regenerate and heal injuries. Anti-aging creams use plant stem cells to make the skin more resilient, strengthen tissues and stimulate the production of new skin cells.
Blue-light protection - The blue waves of smartphones and tablets not only provide dry eyes, but also make our skin age faster. Blue light protection in day creams is a brand new trend that cosmetic manufacturers are currently working on.
The fact is that even though anti-aging is the subject of intense research, the natural aging process of the skin can not be stopped. But at least some signs of aging can be lessened. "Promises that wrinkles are ironed out over night or no longer crumpled through a mask are just as exaggerated as the claim that better contours are possible after the first application. But we want the woman to notice that the skin feels and moisturizes better. And that dryness wrinkles are reduced after repeated use, "says Guylaine Le Loarer, Head of Research and Development at the German natural cosmetics manufacturer Annemarie Börlind.
How does it come to age signs of the skin? "The signs of skin aging do not just arise because one year later, one's birthday has become older. They arise because small defects gradually increase: the moisture supply to the skin decreases, the skin barrier becomes weaker, and oxidative stress becomes noticeable. We know that these first damages are mainly caused by environmental influences (UV rays, air pollution), lifestyle and to a much smaller extent by genetic predisposition ", says Carina Sitz, Product Manager Vichy of L'ORÉAL Austria.
Skin loses moisture first
Collagen fibers and elastin keep the skin elastic and are water storage. However, as they get less over time, the skin's ability to store water also decreases. The consequences: It loses elasticity and is getting drier and thinner. Hyaluronic acid occurs in the intercellular spaces of the skin and connective tissue, is an excellent moisture storage and keeps the skin taut. Unfortunately, it is formed less and less in the course of life.
"The skin loses moisture first. Therefore, raw materials that give more moisture are important, "says Le Loarer. Polysaccharides have an immediate effect by forming a film on the skin. By the way, to protect the collagen and elastin fibers and to create more moisture, one active ingredient is not enough: "It is always a combination." With advancing age, the fat film of the skin also decreases. Vegetable oils, for example, strengthen the skin barrier.
But also from the outside the skin is exposed to stress: sunlight makes them age faster and subsequently causes age spots. As protection against UV light, the skin forms pigments. However, such excess melanin also causes pigmentation. Here, for example, vitamin C helps in the skin cream. Vitamin C also protects against the much-cited free radicals as an antioxidant. Free radicals are unpaired electrons that take away electrons from cell molecules. Too many free radicals are harmful because, for example, they can cause us to age too quickly and cause cell damage.
"But free radicals are not just evil. The body needs it to break down already damaged damaged cells and for repair mechanisms, "says GP. Eva Musil. We permanently create some when inhaling and exhaling. They are harmful if they get out of hand. "Antioxidants catch free radicals."
No "floral cosmetics"
When it comes to pro and anti-aging, Annemarie Börlind relies on an extract from the Black Forest rose that was specially developed in the company: "As far as development is concerned, we work like large corporations." Only active ingredients that have been proven by studies come into question. "This is where we differ from 'flower cosmetics', which advertise herbal extracts without having any proof of whether the effect is actually in the product," says the head of development. The active ingredients also come from plants, but mostly no extract is used, instead a molecule is extracted from the plant or alga, such as a multiple sugar of an alga with a moisture-binding effect.
stem Cell research
The latest development is the Black Forest Rose, which was researched by external partners for three years. "The goal was to develop a drug from the Black Forest Rose, which fits well with our company. We did not know what effect came out and did research from A to Z. "This was based on stem cell research. Stem cells are responsible as cells of origin, inter alia, for repair mechanisms of the skin. The cosmetics industry uses herbal stem cells to make the skin more resilient and stimulate the skin's own stem cell production: "The new stem cell technology makes research easier. Extract cells from the flower, the root or the leaf and see if the cells multiply under laboratory conditions. In the end, two proven-effect raw materials came out. "In vitro tests confirmed the effects, such as better moisture and collagen protection. For example, the black forest rose stem cell extract stimulates the skin's own hyaluronic acid production, protects the skin's own collagen and improves the water transport of the cells.
Probiotic germs
At L'Oréal, another trend is in use: an active ingredient derived from probiotic germs. If pro- and prebiotics were otherwise known from yoghurt, the bacterial cultures have now also found their way into the anti-aging creams. "Similar to how the immune system in the intestinal tract is strengthened by probiotics, the innovative active ingredient protects the skin from harmful environmental influences. It works with a so-called lysate, an immunologically active component of bifidus bacteria, "explains Dr. med. Veronika Lang, the medical-scientific director of manufacturer L'Oréal Austria. Also on our skin you will find bacteria that form a natural protective film. Probiotic bacteria strengthen this microflora.
Latest trend: blue light protection
The latest studies and trends are also an issue for the natural cosmetics manufacturer. Such as anti-pollution protection: Pollution from CO2 particles or cigarette smoke does not only affect the skin cells in large cities and causes the skin to age faster. "You do not see it, but it makes sense to protect yourself," says Le Loarer. Incidentally, the latest trend is blue-light protection: "Studies show that the waves of blue light from smartphones and tablets age the skin faster. This is the next level of anti-aging in day creams. "The processing in skin creams is still difficult. But: "We are working on it."
Anti-aging with hormones
Hormones play an important role in the human body. They also affect the skin and wrinkles. In particular, the female sex hormones estrogen and progesterone (luteal hormone) tighten the connective tissue and are responsible for the necessary elasticity of the skin. Estrogen helps build collagen and elastin in the skin. In addition, estrogen is also responsible for water storage, which has a positive effect on small wrinkles.
"Hormones become less in the course of our lives. Aging is usually associated with estrogen deficiency in women. That is not right. The estrogen level stays up much longer than the progesterone level, "says general and holistic physician Dr. med. Eva Musil. So the luteal hormone progesterone may already be around the 35. Decrease the age of your life. It is important to ensure a balanced hormone levels. Because: A lack of a hormone can lead to the overproduction of another hormone. Therefore, hormone status should always be determined to see how individual hormone balance is ordered.
For anti-aging are particularly progesterone and the hormone precursor DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) relevant, but also testosterone. DHEA allows the body to produce estrogen or testosterone as needed. DHEA is made from cholesterol. "So it's not good to drive cholesterol down. We need them as good fats for the hormone balance, "says Musil. Muscle mass decreases with age. DHEA, progesterone and testosterone promote muscle gain at the expense of adipose tissue. "But you should not just smooth wrinkles on the surface, but build up the tissue from the ground up, also the maintenance of muscle mass is important. That does not work without movement, "says the doctor.
Hopes also put anti-aging research into telomerase. "Each cell divides a few times before it finally dies. With every cell division, the DNA also has to divide and multiply. There are always mistakes, "says Musil. The end caps of the chromosomes are called telomeres. They become shorter every cell division before the cell dies or becomes ill. There are enzymes in the cell nucleus whose purpose is to intercept errors: "The task of the enzyme telomerase is to compensate for shortened telomeres. With age, cell division errors increase, and telomerase decreases. "Researchers have developed a substance that will restore telomerase production, earning it the Nobel Prize a few years ago. Although taken regularly, the aging process can not be stopped, but at least slowed down. Incidentally, cancer cells also contain telomerase, which is why they are virtually immortal.
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