k.fuehrer
UJasmin Schister ebevegan iminyaka elishumi. Umnikazi wevenkile-koroni uhombisa umzimba wakhe ngeempahla ezenziwe ngemifuno engenanto. I-Vegan ayibizi ngokuzenzekelayo njengebhayoloji. Ibhayoloji ayithethi ukuba iveliswe ngokuzenzekelayo phantsi kweemeko zokusebenza ezifanelekileyo, ezinokufumaneka kwimeko-bume. Ubulungisa, i-organic kunye ne-vegan ayithethi ngokuzenzekelayo ukusuka kwingingqi. Ewe, ifashoni ekunzima ukuyibona.
Ukuze afumane i-vegan, efanelekileyo, edaywe zezityalo, enxibe iimpahla ezinemizila emifutshane kunye neendlela zakhe zothutho eVienna, uJasmin Schister kwafuneka abuze imibuzo emininzi. Wafumanisa ukuba uninzi lwabathengisi beentlobo ezinkulu nezincinci zefashoni abaziswanga ngemvelaphi kunye nokuveliswa kweengubo ezinikezelweyo. "Ungowokuqala ubuza imibuzo enjalo, uvile. Ngokukodwa igama elithi "bio" lidumile, kodwa ayiloxesha elikhuselweyo lokuya ekubanjweni kwabathengi. USchister wabona kwivenkile yeyoga ukuba lo uthengisayo ufuna ukumnika isambatho sebhayoloji engeyiyo eyakhe. Kuphela emva kwemibuzo emithathu kunye nokujonga iileyibhile yangaphakathi, ekungazange kufundwe itywina elizimeleyo lomgangatho okanye umqhaphu, unokuziqinisekisa ngempazamo yomthengisi.
Imifanekiso eqingqiweyo kwiVietnam kaMariahilfer Straße iqinisekisa amava kaJasmin Schister. "Abathengi abaziceli iimveliso zezinto eziphilayo," utshilo umthengisi wasePalmers. Uqengqeleka esiswini esimhlophe esenziwe ngekotoni evela kwindalo: "Inye kuphela into esinayo apha kumqhaphu." Isitywina sokuvuma asifumaneki esiswini. Ke loo nto ayinanto yakwenza nefashoni efanelekileyo.
Iilebheli ezisemgangathweni kunye nokwenziwa
“Ayiyilebheli ye-organic leyo?” Ubuza umthengisi we-H & M, ekhomba kwileyibhile eluhlaza eqhotyoshelwe kwihempe "Yenziwe eBangladesh" evela kwingqokelela yeConscious. Ufumana ukuqiniswa. Abathengisi abathathu bavavanya isikipa. Bakhomba isiqinisekiso sephepha kwileyibhile kunye nebinzana elithi "Organic Cotton" ejikelezwe ngombala omhlophe, eprintwe ngaphakathi kwikhamera. Nantso ke! Umqhaphu wendalo! Yiyo le? ”Wabuza umfazi wesibini othengisayo. Owesithathu uyavuma: "Asizange siqeqeshwe kuloo nto."
Amatywina amathathu abalulekileyo, azimeleyo okuvunywa ngendlela efanelekileyo yekaJasmin Schister Trade fair, GOTS kwaye Ukunxiba okuhle, Itywina ngalinye lihamba nenye indawo kwityathanga lemveliso. Le mibutho mithathu iluncedo izisa amatywina athatyathwa njengabandakanyeke kwifashoni efanelekileyo. Kodwa nalapha, umthengi kufuneka ajonge ngasemva ngobuchule bokusebenzisa amasebe wentengiso.
Ifashoni eyiyo: "I-100 yepesenti elungileyo ayinangqondo"
“Yinto engekho ngqiqweni ukuchaza isinxibo njengefashoni efanelekileyo eyi-100 yeepesenti. Amakhonkco onikezelo lwamazwe aphesheya antsonkothile kwaye made. Ukuqinisekisa ukuba wonke umntu okwisetyana lokubonelelwa uphathwa kakuhle ayiyonyani, ”kubhala uLotte Schuurman, osisithethi seendaba kwiFair Wear Foundation, ekhuthaza iimeko ezifanelekileyo zokuthunga, kwingxelo eya kuKhetho. Nditsho naseFairtrade, ekhankasela amalungelo abasebenzi abasebenza kumafama kunye namafama, ukuqeshwa kwabantwana abangaphantsi kweminyaka eli-15 kuvumelekile kwiifama zabazali babo “ukuba ayichaphazeli izifundo, abaxhatshazwa okanye basebenze kakhulu, kwaye akukho mfuneko yokuba benze nantoni na eyingozi kwaye oko kuphela phantsi kweliso labazali, ”ucacisa athethe isithethi seendaba eFairtrade Austria, uBernhard Moser, malunga nefashoni efanelekileyo. "Iinkcukacha malunga nomgama ukusuka esikolweni nasendaweni yokuhlala, ixesha elifunekayo lomsebenzi wasekhaya, ukudlala nokulala kunye nexesha elifanelekileyo ngokwendlela elishiyekileyo ngokwendalo liyahluka ngokuxhomekeke kwilizwe, ingingqi kunye noluntu ekuhlaleni", wongeza uMoser.
Ii-NGOs zibona umsebenzi wazo njengokuxhasa amalungu ehlabathi kunye nokwenza umsebenzi wokwazisa kunye noqeqesho. “Amalungu anikwa ithuba lokwenza uphuculo. Utshintsho oluzinzileyo alwenzeki ngokukhawuleza, ”ucacisa uLotte Schuurman. Ifashoni elungileyo yathethwa ngokukhawuleza kunokuba iphunyeziwe.
Amazwe amaninzi - ingubo
Umthengi we-C & A akanakho ukungafihli malunga nokuba i "T-shirt ye-organic esiyithandayo" ivelaphi. Ilebheli eyaziwayo "Yenziwe kwi ..." ayikho. "Iveliswa kwihlabathi liphela," utshilo umthengisi we-C & A, "wonke umntu wenza njalo."
Isebe leendaba le-C & A lithethelela ukunqongophala kwelebheli lemveliso ngolu hlobo lulandelayo: Kwelinye icala, akukho zibonelelo zemveliso ezizezayo, kodwa abathengisi abangama-800 kunye nabathengisi abangama-3.500 kwihlabathi liphela. Amazwe ahlukeneyo ahlala ebandakanyeka kwinto yokunxiba, eyenza ukuba ilebheli ibe "nzima ngokwendalo". Okwesibini, iilebheli zinokukhokelela kwintengiso yeemveliso ezihambelanayo ezicalulwa ngenxa yezizathu ezahlukeneyo.
Injongo kukubonelela amazwe asakhasayo ukufikelela kwiimarike zaseNtshona ngemveliso yazo. Akukho sinyanzeliso sokubhaliweyo kwilizwe ngalinye elinemveliso kwi-EU.
Ifashoni elungileyo: Inyani yeli lizwe
Umzi mveliso wendwangu uxhomekeke kwikhemistri. Izibulala-zinambuzane, iibhlogo, iidayi, isinyithi esinzima, i-emollients, isepha, ioyile kunye nee-alkali zisetyenziswa emasimini nakwimizi mveliso. Ukungcola kwezinto kwilaphu kunye nongcoliseko lwendalo njengokungcolisa umhlaba kunye namanzi aphantsi komhlaba kunye nokusetyenziswa kwamanzi aphezulu akuboni kubathengi. Akababoni abantu abavelisa ingubo yakhe ngelixa besongela impilo yabo kwaye uvuzwa ngokungafanelekanga. Akaziboni izinto ezishiyekileyo zelaphu ezigqityiweyo zezityalo ezenziwayo kunye nenkunkuma yezixhobo.
“Njengenxalenye yokuthengwa kwamalaphu kwilizwe liphela, i-C & A nayo ijongene kaninzi neemeko ezingamkelekanga. Ngelishwa, yinyani yeli hlabathi (…) ”, kubhala uLars Boelke, isithethi seendaba e-C & A.
Imfashini yezemidlalo njengefashoni efanelekileyo: i-hemp, i-bamboo kunye ne-Co
U-Kerstin Tuder, umnini we-Ecolodge, uyivenkile yokuqala yase-Ostriya ye-intanethi kwimidlalo yezemidlalo enobulungisa neyenziweyo, kubandakanya nefashoni elungileyo. “Ulusu lwethu lelona lungu lethu likhulu. Xa sibile, sifunxa zonke izinto ezingcolisayo. ”Ifashoni efanelekileyo eyenziwe ngefayibha yoqalo, ihempe okanye iTencel ilunge ngakumbi kunomqhaphu xa kufikwa kumba wokunxiba intuthuzelo ngexesha lezemidlalo. I-Tencel iveliswa yinkampani yase-Ostriya iLenzing kwimpuphu ethengwe e-Austria. Umgubo uveliswa kwaye uthengiswe ngamayeza okusila e-pulp eMzantsi Afrika, ethi yona ivelise ngomthi we-eucalyptus kwiifama ze-eucalyptus. Ukongeza kwimidlalo yezemidlalo, i-Ecolodge, evule igumbi layo lokubonisa e-Kilb (e-Ostriya esezantsi) ngolwesiHlanu, ikwabonelela ngobucwebecwecwe babaqulunqi base-Austrian kunye nezinto zemidlalo ezinje ngeebhodi zekhephu ezenziwe ngezinto ezenziwe ngokutsha. Izicathulo zemidlalo, iibhikini kunye neempahla zokudada azifumaneki kwifom ezinzileyo. “Akukho sihlangu sizinzileyo ngokwe-100%. Kudala sikhangela, ”utshilo uKerstin Tuder.
Ukuqhuba ngezixhobo kugcina oovimba
Ngokwokupapashwa kombutho okhusela indalo esingqongileyo iGlobal 2000 eqongeni www.reduse.org, omnye umntu wase-Austrian uthenga ezinye iimpahla ze-19 ngonyaka. "Iingubo zethu zinxitywa kabini kunoko sizinxiba thina," utshilo uHenning Mörch, unondyebo eHumana, iklabhu kwintsebenziswano kuphuhliso. Uqikelela ukuba i-25.000 ukuya kwiitoni ze-40.000 zeempahla ziqokelelwa minyaka le nguHumana e-Austria. Ezi mpahla zithuthwa ziye eqokeleleni ngezizathu zeendleko eziya eMpuma Yurophu kwaye zichwechwa kwizityalo zokuhlela zalapha. Ukufikelela kwiipesenti ze-70 zibuyiswa njenge "mpahla yokunxiba" e-Austria okanye e-Afrika kwaye ithengiswe apho ngamaxabiso emakethi. UMörch uthi: "Kuphela kuxa siqhubeka sigcina izixhobo. Izigidigidi ezintlanu kwezigidi ezisixhenxe zabantu baxhomekeke kwisandla sesibini.
Iisokisi zihlala zingafumaneki kwiivenkile zokuhambisa. Umyili wezinto uAnita Steinwidder uthatha iisokisi ezihlelweyo kwiinkampani ezinjengeVolkshilfe kwaye wenza iziketi neebhulukhwe eziqokelelela kuye. Ukuthunga kunye neendlela ezimbini zokuthunga kwindawo yokusebenzela eVienna. Iindwangu ezindala zihlala zihlamba kwaye ke ngoko zisempilweni ngakumbi kunezinto ezintsha, utshilo uSteinwidder. U-ecolabel wayengafuni ukumfumana. Umyili uyifumana ngakumbi imiba yentlalo yokunxiba enomdla. Kungenxa yokuba kumgaqo kuphela yi "shreds".
Ngokuhamba ngebhayisikile ukuya kwifashoni efanelekileyo
Ukuphindaphindeka kunye nokuyila kwakhona kokubonisa kunokuboniswa njani kwishishini lokuqinisekisa iRita Jelinek. Apha unokufumana iingxowa ezivela kwiipakethe zakudala zejusi, isacholo esenziwe ngokuvalwa okanye ngamaketanga enziwe kwiTriftwood yaseTurkey. UJelinek uthi: "Inokuba yeyona ndlela inokulungeleka yokunxiba. Uhlaziya izinto ebezinokufika ngenye indlela kwinkunkuma. Phakathi kwabaqulunqi bamazwe aphesheya abavela eCambodia, eFinland nasePoland, abasebenza ngamachaphaza kwilaphu kwishishini leempahla, kukho iilebhile zaseOstriya ezivenkileni, ezinje ngeMilch, ethenga iimpahla zabantu abadala kwiVolkshilfe kwaye izisebenzise ukwenza iibhulukhwe kunye neebhulukhwe. "UThixo uyazi ukuba ibiyintoni ngaphambili," uhlekisa uRita Jelinek, ejonge ilungelo lakhe.
Ifashoni elungileyo isetyenziselwa ukuthathwa kwengqondo
Kumazwe athetha isiJamani, uthungelwano olunengqondo kuqoqosho lwenziwa ngabafundi bakaZen Master uTich Nhat Hanh. Uluvo olusisiseko kukuba bonke abantu bayinxalenye yoqoqosho kwaye banokutshintsha ngokubonakalayo ubomi bemihla ngemihla ngokwazi.
Indlela esisebenzisa ngayo ihlala igqwesile. Sithenga izinto ezingaphili ngokukhawuleza kwiikhabhathi okanye uthuli kumashalofu ngaphandle kwethu. Ukutyiwa sisazela kuthetha ukwakha ubudlelwane obunentsingiselo nobungapheliyo kwizinto esizivumelayo ebomini bethu.
Yintoni, njani, kutheni kwaye ingakanani?
Umqalisi wothungelwano olunengqondo kuqoqosho, u-Kai Romhardt, ucebisa ngokunqumama ukuthenga nokubuza imibuzo emine. Umbuzo wokuqala ngulowo malunga nento. Ndifuna ukuthenga ntoni? Yintoni le mveliso? Ngaba sempilweni kum nakwindawo esihlala kuyo? ”Utsho uBuddha. Umbuzo wesibini ngokokuma kwengqondo yakhe. Kubalulekile ukuba unikele ingqalelo kwinto oyithengayo ngalo mzuzu. Yekani ukunqumama ukuze niqonde iiphatheni zokuziphatha.
"Umbuzo wesithathu kutheni?" Uyachaza uRomhardt. "Yintoni eqhuba kum? Ngaba ndiziva ndinomdla ngakumbi xa ndithenga le ngubo? Ndiyoyika ukungabingabo? "Umbuzo wokugqibela ngumgangatho. Nje ukuba sithathe isigqibo malunga nokuthenga, uKai Romhardt ucebisa ukuba ayinxibe ngononophelo ingubo. Ukuba sizahlulahlule kwizixhobo, kufuneka senjenjalo ngesazela nangenyameko. Ke ukuya kuqokelele iimpahla. Oko kuyinxalenye yengcinga yefashoni elungileyo.
Photo / Ividiyo: Shutterstock, Isiseko seFaitware.
