k.fuehrer
Jasmin Schister wakhala ali vegan kwa pafupifupi zaka khumi. Wogulitsa shopu-koroni amakongoletsa thupi lake ndi zovala zopangidwa ndi masamba abwino. Vegan samatchedwa kuti mwachilengedwe. Zamoyo sizitanthauza kuti zimangopangika zokhazokha, m'malo ogwirira ntchito. Zabwino, organic ndi vegan sizitanthauza zokha kuchokera ku dera. Inde, mafashoni ndichowoneka bwino.
Kuti apange vegan, zovala zowoneka bwino, zodonedwa pamitundu yokhala ndi mayendedwe afupiafupi kwa iye ndi shopu yake ku Vienna, Jasmin Schister adafunsa mafunso ambiri. Adapeza kuti ambiri omwe amagulitsa maunyolo akulu ndi ang'ono samawuzidwa zakomwe zovala ndi zovala zomwe adapatsidwa. "Ndinu woyamba kufunsa mafunso ngati awa," adamva. Makamaka mawu oti "bio" ndiwotchuka, koma osati mawu otetezedwa kuti mupite kukasamalira kasitomala. Schister adawona mu shopu ya yoga kuti wogulitsa akufuna kum'patsa chovala chachilengedwe chomwe sichinali chimodzi. Pambuyo pa mafunso atatu ndikuyang'ana cholembera chamkati, chomwe sichidawerengedwa chidindo chodziyimira payokha kapena thonje, adatha kudzitsimikizira yekha zolakwika za wogulitsa.
Kujambula mwachidule kwa a Mariahilfer Straße a Vienna kumatsimikizira zomwe Jasmin Schister adakumana nazo. "Makasitomala safunsira zinthu zachilengedwe," atero wogulitsa a Palmers. Akutsuka pamimba yoyera yopangidwa ndi thonje: "Ndi chinthu chokhacho chomwe tili nacho pano thonje." Chisindikizo chovomerezeka sichimapezeka pamimba. Chifukwa chake palibe chochita ndi mafashoni achilungamo.
Zolemba ndi mawonekedwe
“Kodi si ndiwo chizindikiro cha organic?” Afunsa mayi wogulitsa wa H & M, kuloza cholemba chobiriwira chophatikizidwa ndi malaya a "Made in Bangladesh" kuchokera pagulu la Conscious. Akupeza zowonjezera. Amayi atatu ogulitsa amagulitsa T-shirt. Amaloza chitsimikizo cha pepala chomwe chidalembedwapo mawu oti "Organic Thonje" wozungulira moyera, womwe umasindikizidwa mkatikati mwa camisole. "Ndi zimenezo! Thonje wamthupi! Kodi ndi zimenezo? ”Adafunsa mayi wachiwiri wogulitsayo. Wachitatu akuvomereza kuti: "Sitinaphunzitsidwe za izi."
Zisindikizo zitatu zofunika kwambiri, zodziyimira pawokha zovomerezedwa mosakondera ndi za Jasmin Schister zamalonda, GOTS ndi Kuvala koyenera, Chisindikizo chilichonse chimatsagana ndi dera lina pamakina opanga. Mabungwe atatu othandizira omwe amapatsa zisindikizo amawonedwa kuti ali pachiwonetsero chabwino. Koma ngakhale pano, wogula amayenera kuyang'ana kumbuyo kochenjera kwamadipatimenti otsatsa.
Fashoni Yabwino: "100 peresenti yachilungamo ndiyosatheka"
“Sizomveka kunena kuti chovala ndi mafashoni abwino 100. Maunyolo apadziko lonse lapansi ndi ovuta komanso aatali. Kuonetsetsa kuti aliyense wogulitsidwa amathandizidwa ndizosatheka, "alemba a Lotte Schuurman, wolankhulira atolankhani a Fair Wear Foundation, omwe amalimbikitsa magwiridwe antchito achisoni, m'mawu a Option. Ngakhale ku Fairtrade, komwe kumalimbikitsa ufulu wa ogwira ntchito m'minda ndi alimi, kugwiritsa ntchito ana osakwana zaka 15 kumaloledwa m'minda ya makolo awo "ngati sizikukhudza maphunzirowo, sagwiritsidwa ntchito mopitirira muyeso, ndipo safunika kuchita zinthu zowopsa zilizonse ndipo izi zimangoyang'aniridwa ndi makolo, "akulongosola wolankhulira atolankhani ku Fairtrade Austria, a Bernhard Moser, za mafashoni achilungamo. "Zambiri za mtunda kuchokera kusukulu ndi malo okhala, nthawi yofunikira kuchita homuweki, kusewera ndi kugona komanso nthawi yake mosiyanasiyana imasiyanasiyana kutengera dziko, dera komanso mudzi," akuwonjezera Moser.
Mabungwe omwe siaboma amawona ntchito yawo ngati kuthandiza mamembala apadziko lonse lapansi ndikuyendetsa ntchito yophunzitsa anthu zambiri. “Mamembala amapatsidwa mwayi wosintha. Kusintha kosatha sikungachitike mwadzidzidzi, ”akufotokoza a Lotte Schuurman. Mafashoni abwino amanenedwa mwachangu kuposa momwe amathandizira.
Maiko ambiri - chovala
Wotsatsa C & A alibe chiwonetsero chazomwe T-sheti ya "Timakonda organic" imachokera. Chizindikiro chodziwika bwino cha "Made in ..." chikusowa. "Amapangidwa padziko lonse lapansi," akutero mayi wogulitsa wa C&A, "aliyense amachita motero."
Dipatimenti ya atolankhani ya C&A imalungamitsa kusadziwika kwa dziko lopangidwira motere: Kumbali imodzi, kulibe malo opangira ake, koma ogulitsa 800 ndi ogulitsa 3.500 padziko lonse lapansi. Maiko osiyanasiyana nthawi zambiri amatenga nawo gawo pazovala, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zilembedwe kuti "ndizovuta mwachilengedwe". Chachiwiri, zolemba zitha kupangitsa kuti kugulitsidwa kwa zinthu zofananira kusankhidwe pazifukwa zosiyanasiyana.
Cholinga ndikupereka mayiko omwe akutukuka kuti athe kupeza misika yaku Western kudzera pazogulitsa zawo. Palibe kukakamiza kulembera iliyonse yamayiko opanga ku EU.
Fashoni Yabwino: Zomwe zili zenizeni padziko lapansi
Makampani ogulitsa nsalu amadalira umagwirira. Tizilombo toyambitsa matenda, mabakiteriya, utoto, zitsulo zolemera, ma emollients, sopo, mafuta ndi alkali amagwiritsidwa ntchito paminda komanso m'mafakitale. Zinyalala pazovala ndi kuwonongeka kwa chilengedwe monga kuipitsidwa kwa dothi komanso pansi panthaka komanso kugwiritsa ntchito madzi ambiri sikukuwona wogula. Samawona anthu omwe amapanga chovala chake pomwe akuika pangozi thanzi lawo ndikulipidwa. Samawona zoponyera nsalu zopangidwa ndi zomangamanga komanso kuwononga zinthu.
"Monga gawo logula nsalu padziko lonse lapansi, C&A imakumana ndi zovuta zomwe sizingavomerezedwe. Tsoka ilo, izi ndiye zowona mdziko lino (…) ”, alemba a Lars Boelke, mneneri atolankhani ku C&A.
Mafashoni amasewera monga mafashoni abwino: hemp, bamboo & Co
Kerstin Tuder, mwini wake wa Ecolodge, shopu yoyamba yaku Austria yogwiritsa ntchito mafashoni amakanema komanso opangidwa mwaluso, kuphatikiza mafashoni osakondera. “Khungu lathu ndiye chiwalo chathu chachikulu kwambiri. Tikatuluka thukuta, timayamwa zinthu zonse zovulaza. ”Mafashoni abwino opangidwa ndi ulusi wa nsungwi, hemp kapena Tencel ndioyenera kuposa thonje potengera kuvala bwino pamasewera. Tencel amapangidwa ndi kampani yaku Austria Lenzing kuchokera zamkati zogulidwa ku Austria. Zamkati zimapangidwa ndikugulitsidwa ndi mphero zamkati ku South Africa, zomwe zimatulutsa kuchokera ku nkhuni za bulugamu kuchokera kumafamu a bulugamu. Kuphatikiza pa zovala zamasewera, Ecolodge, yomwe idatsegula chipinda chawo chowonetsera ku Kilb (Lower Austria) Lachisanu, imaperekanso miyala yamtengo wapatali ya opanga aku Austria ndi masewera amasewera monga matabwa a chipale chofewa opangidwa kuchokera kuzinthu zobwezerezedwanso. Nsapato zamasewera, ma bikini ndi ma swimsuits sizipezeka mwanjira yokhazikika. “Palibe nsapato yomwe imakhala yokhazikika nthawi zonse. Takhala tikufuna kwa nthawi yayitali, "akutero Kerstin Tuder.
Kunyamula zofunikira kumapulumutsa zinthu
Malinga ndi zomwe bungwe loteteza zachilengedwe Global 2000 pa pulatifomu ya www.reduse.org, munthu wina waku Austria amagula zovala za 19 pachaka. "Zovala zathu zimavalidwa kawiri bola titadzivala tokha," atero a Henning Mörch, msungichuma ku Humana, kalabu pakukula kwa mgwirizano. Akuyerekeza kuti zovala za 25.000 mpaka 40.000 za zovala zimasonkhanitsidwa pachaka ndi Humana ku Austria. Zovalazi zimatengedwa kuti zisonkhanitsidwe pazifukwa zodula ku Eastern Europe ndipo zimayikidwa mu mitundu yosanja. Mpaka 70 peresenti imabwezedwa ngati "zovala zosunthika" kubwerera ku Austria kapena Africa ndikugulitsidwa pamitengo yamisika. "Pokhapokha titangopanga ndalama zomwe timasunga," atero Mörch. Anthu mabiliyoni asanu mwa anthu asanu ndi awiri biliyoni amadalira anzawo.
Masokisi nthawi zambiri samapezeka m'masitolo otetezeka. Wopanga zopangapanga Anita Steinwidder amatenga masokosi osankhidwa kuchokera kumakampani monga Volkshilfe ndikupanga masiketi ndi mathalauza omutengera. Kusoka ndi ma seamstress awiri pantchito ku Vienna. Zovala zakale nthawi zambiri zimatsukidwa motero zimakhala ndi thanzi kwambiri kuposa zovala zatsopano, "akutero Steinwidder. Ecolabel sankafuna kuti amupeze. Wopangayo amasangalala makamaka ndi machitidwe a zovala. Chifukwa mfundo zake ndi "zodula" zokha.
Kupitilira kukwera njinga kwamfashoni mwachilungamo
Momwe zimasinthasinthira komanso kupanga zinthu mwanzeru zitha kuwonetsedwa mu bizinesi ya Rita Jelinek yomwe ili yonse. Apa mupeza matumba kuchokera m'matumba akale amadzimadzi, zibangili zopangidwa kuchokera kutseka kapena matcheni opangidwa kuchokera ku Turkey Driftwood. Jelinek anati: "Mwina ndi njira yabwino kwambiri yovalira. Imakonzanso zida zomwe zikadakhala kuti zitha mu zinyalala. Pakati pa opanga maiko ena ochokera ku Cambodia, Finland ndi Poland, omwe amagwira ntchito ndi nsalu pamakampani opanga zovala, palinso zolemba zaku Austria m'sitolo, monga Milch, zomwe zimagula suti zachikale za Volkshilfe ndikuzigwiritsa ntchito kupanga zovala ndi madiresi. "Mulungu akudziwa momwe zidalili kale," akunyoza Rita Jelinek, akuyang'ana momwe adalonjedwera.
Fashoni yabwinobwino imatanthawuza kumwa kosamala
M'mayiko olankhula Chijeremani, maukonde a Networkful Economy adapangidwa ndi ophunzira a Buddhist Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh. Cholinga chachikulu ndikuti anthu onse ndi gawo limodzi lazachuma ndipo akhoza kusintha moyo wawo pachidziwitso chimodzi.
Momwe timamwa nthawi zambiri pamakhala zinthu zosafunikira kwenikweni. Timagula zinthu zomwe sizimakhala ndi moyo m'makabati kapena pafumbi pang'onopang'ono popanda ife kupindula. Kuwononga mosamala kumatanthauza kupanga ubale wopindulitsa ndi zinthu zomwe timaloleza m'miyoyo yathu.
Chiani, motani, bwanji ndipo ndi zochuluka motani?
Woyambitsa waukadaulo waukadaulo waukadaulo, Kai Romhardt, akuwalangiza kuti usadule pang'ono kugula ndikufunsa mafunso anayi. "Funso loyamba ndi lomwe likunena za chinthucho. Kodi ndikufuna kugula chiyani? Kodi malonda ake ndi otani? Kodi ndibwino kwa ine komanso chilengedwe? "Atero Abuda. Funso lachiwiri ndi malinga ndi momwe munthu akumvera. Ndikofunika kulabadira zomwe mukugula pakadali pano. Siyani kupumula kuti muzindikire mawonekedwe.
"Funso lachitatu ndi chifukwa chiyani?" Akufotokoza Romhardt. "Chimandiyendetsa ndichani? Kodi ndimakhala wokongola kwambiri ndikagula chovalachi? Kodi ndikuopa kuti sindikhala nawo? "Funso lomaliza ndi muyeso. Tikangoganiza zogula, Kai Romhardt amalangiza kuvala chovalacho mosamala. Ngati tidzilekanitsa ndi chovala, tiyenera kuchita mosamala komanso mosamala. Chifukwa chake pitani kosonkhanitsa zovala. Ichinso ndi gawo la lingaliro lamachitidwe abwino.
Photo / Video: Shutterstock, Faitware Foundation.
