k.fuehrer
Jasmin Schister anga ari vegan kweanenge makore gumi. Iye muridzi wechitoro-koroni anoshongedza muviri wake nehembe dzakagadzirwa nemidziyo yemichero yakachena. Vegan haisi kungozvarwa ichinzi biological. Biologically hazvireve kuti yakagadzirwa pakarepo pasi pemamiriro ekunze, ane hushamwari-anoshanda mamiriro. Fair, organic uye vegan hazvireve otomatiki kubva mudunhu. Ehe, mafashoni akaoma kuona.
Kuti awane vegan, yakanaka, yakatsvuka-yakadzvanywa, zvipfeko zvipfeko zvine zvipfupi mafambiro emigwagwa iye nechitoro chake muVienna, Jasmin Schister aifanira kubvunza mibvunzo yakawanda. Akaona kuti vazhinji vevatengesi vemakuru uye madiki mafashoni makemeni haana kuziviswa nezvekwavo uye kugadzirwa kwembatya dzakapihwa. "Ndiwe wekutanga kubvunza mibvunzo yakadai," akanzwa. Kunyanya izwi rekuti "bio" rakakurumbira, asi kwete izwi rakadzivirirwa kuenda kunobata vatengi. Schister akaona mune yechitoro che yoga kuti mutengesi aida kumupa nguo yekubereka iyo yakanga isiri imwe. Chete mushure memibvunzo mitatu uye kutarisa mukati meya, iyo isina kunyorwa chisimbiso chemhando kana yekotoni, aigona kuzvigonesa pamusoro pechikanganiso chomutengesi.
Kutaurisa pane iyo Vienna's Mariahilfer Straße inotsigira chiitiko chaJasmin Schister. "Vatengi havabvunze zvinhu zvinogadzirwa," anodaro mukadzi wekuPalmers anotengesa. Anogunun'una dumbu jena rakagadzirwa nekotoni kubva mudhirowa: "Ndicho chinhu choga chatinacho pano patoni yekotoni." Chisimbiso chekubvumidza hachiwanikwe padumbu. Saka izvozvo hazvinei nekuita zvakanaka mafashoni.
Mhando mavara uye mafomu
“Haisi iyo organic label here?” Anobvunza mukadzi anotengesa weH & M, achinongedzera kuchitema chakasvibirira chakabatanidzwa nehembe "Yakagadzirwa muBangladesh" kubva kuunganidzwa weConscious. Ari kuwana zvekusimbiswa. Vatengesi vatatu vanoongorora T-shati. Ivo vanonongedzera kuchisimbiso chebepa pane zvakanyorwa uye chirevo "Organic Cotton" chakatenderedzwa nechena, icho chakadhindwa mukati memakamuri. "Hezvo izvo! Organic donje! Ndozvazviri here? ”Anobvunza mutengesi uya wechipiri. Wechitatu anobvuma kuti: "Isu hatina kudzidziswa pane izvo."
Iwo matatu akakosha, akazvimirira zvisimbiso zvekubvumidzwa mune yakasarudzika fashoni ndeya Jasmin Schister akanaka Trade, GOTS uye Kupfeka kwakanaka, Chisimbiso chega chega chinofambidzana neimwe nzvimbo munzvimbo yekugadzira. Masangano matatu anobatsira anogovera zvisimbiso anoonekwa achisimbisa mafashoni. Asi kunyangwe pano, mutengi anofanira kutarisa kumashure kwekuchenjera mafomu emapazi ekushambadzira.
Mufashoni Mafashoni: "100 muzana yakanaka haina musoro"
“Hazvina musoro kutsanangura chidimbu chembatya semafashoni akanaka muzana. International cheni dzekupa dzakaomarara uye dzakareba. Kuona kuti munhu wese ari muchengeti arapwa zvakanaka hazviitike, "anonyora Lotte Schuurman, mutauriri wemapepanhau weFair Wear Foundation, iyo inotsigira mamiriro ekushandira akanaka evasoni, mune chirevo kuna Option. Kunyangwe kuFairtrade, iyo inotsvaga kodzero dzevashandi vemuminda nevarimi, kushandiswa kwevana vari pasi pemakore gumi nemashanu kunotenderwa kumapurazi evabereki vavo "kana zvikasakanganisa zvidzidzo, havashandiswe kana kushanda zvakanyanya, uye havafanirwe kutora chero zviito zvine njodzi. uye izvo chete pasi pekutarisirwa kwevabereki, ”anotsanangura mutauriri wenhau weFairtrade Austria, Bernhard Moser, nezve mafashoni akanaka. "Ruzivo rwechinhambwe kubva kuchikoro nekugara, nguva inodiwa pakuita homuweki, kutamba uye kurara pamwe chete nenguva yakatarwa inosiyana zvichienderana nenyika, dunhu nemusha wevanhu," anowedzera Moser.
Iwo maNGOs anoona basa ravo sekutsigira nhengo dzepasirese uye kuita basa rekusimudzira ruzivo uye kudzidziswa. “Nhengo dzinopihwa mukana wekuvandudza. Shanduko dzinogadzirika hadziitike kamwe kamwe, ”anotsanangura kudaro Lotte Schuurman. Mufashoni wakanaka unonzi unokurumidza kupfuura kuitwa.
Nyika zhinji - nguo
Mutengi weC & A haana pachena nezvekuti "Tinoda organic cotton" T-shirt inobva kupi. Chinozivikanwa "Made in ..." chakashayikwa. "Inogadzirwa pasirese," anodaro mukadzi anotengesa weC & A, "munhu wese anozviita nenzira iyoyo."
Dhipatimendi repepanhau reC & A rinoruramisa kushomeka kwekuzivikanwa kwenyika yekugadzira seinotevera: Kune rimwe divi, hapana zvivakwa zvekugadzira zvoga, asi 800 vatengesi uye 3.500 vashambadziri pasi rese. Nyika dzakasiyana dzinowanzobatanidzwa mune chimwe chinhu chekupfeka, izvo zvinoita kuti kunzi "zvakasununguka kuoma". Chechipiri, zvinyorwa zvinogona kutungamira mukutengeswa kwezvinoenderana zvigadzirwa kusarurwa nekuda kwezvikonzero zvakasiyana.
Chinangwa ndechekupa nyika dzichiri kusimukira mukana wekuwana misika yekuMadokero kuburikidza nezvigadzirwa zvavo. Iko hakuna chisungo chekunyorera yega yega nyika dzekugadzira muEU.
Fashoni Yakanakisa: Chokwadi chenyika ino
Iyo indasitiri yemachira inotsamira pakemistry. Mishonga yekuuraya zvipuka, mabichi, dhayi, simbi dzinorema, emollients, sipo, oiri uye alkalis zvinoshandiswa paminda nepafekitori. Kusvibisa pane machira uye kusvibiswa kwezvakatipoteredza kwakadai sekusvibiswa kwevhu uye pasi pevhu uye kushandiswa kwakanyanya kwemvura hakuoni mutengi. Haaone vanhu vanogadzira nguo yake ivo vachikuisa hutano hwavo panjodzi uye vasina mubayiro. Iye haaone iyo yakaraswa machira emari yezvirimwa zvekugadzira uye kutambisa kwezvekushandisa.
“Sechikamu chekutenga kwayo machira epasirese, C&A inogara ichisangana nemamiriro asingatambirike. Nehurombo, icho ndicho chokwadi chenyika ino (…) ”, anonyora Lars Boelke, mutauriri wenhau kuC & A.
Mitambo yemitambo sefashoni yakanaka: hemp, bamboo & Co
"Nharo inoshanda kwazvo kemesitiri," anodaro Kerstin Tuder, muridzi weEcolodge, chitoro chekutanga cheAustria online pamitambo yemitambo yakasununguka uye inogadzirwa, kusanganisira fashoni yakanaka. “Ganda redu inhengo yedu hombe. Patinodikitira, tinotora zvese zvinosvibisa. ”Fashoni yakanaka inogadzirwa neshinda fiber, hemp kana Tencel inokodzera kupfuura donje kana zvasvika pakupfeka nyaradzo mukati memutambo. Tencel inowanikwa kubva kuAustria kambani Lenzing kubva mupurpu yakatengwa muAustria. Iyo pulp inogadzirwa uye inotengeswa nemapurpiti mamuri muSouth Africa, ayo anozoiburitsa kubva kueucalyptus huni kubva kumapurazi eucalyptus. Pamusoro pekupfeka zvemitambo, iyo Ecolodge, iyo yakavhura imba yayo yekuratidzira muKilb (Lower Austria) neChishanu, inopawo zvishongo zvakagadzirwa nevagadziri veAustria nezvinhu zvemitambo senge mabhodhi echando akagadzirwa kubva kuzvinhu zvakadzokororwa. Shangu dzemitambo, bikini uye swimsuits hazviwanikwe mune fomu yakagadzikana “Hakuna bhutsu inoenderana ne100 muzana. Tave nenguva tichitsvaga, ”anodaro Kerstin Tuder.
Kutakura zviwanikwa kunochengetedza zviwanikwa
Sekureva kwakabuditswa nesangano rinochengetedza zvakatipoteredza Global 2000 pachikuva www.reduse.org, mumwe munhu wemuAustria anotenga dzimwe nguo dze19 pagore. "Zvipfeko zvedu zvinopfekwa zvakapetwa nekarefu patinozvipfeka isu pachedu," anodaro Henning Mörch, mubati wehomwe paHumana, kirabhu. yekusimudzira mubatanidzwa. Anofungidzira kuti 25.000 kusvika 40.000 matani ezvipfeko anounganidzwa gore rimwe nerimwe neHumana muAustria yose. Izvo zvipfeko zvinotakurwa kuenda kune kuunganidzwa kwezvikonzero zvemutengo kuEast Europe uye zvakarongedzwa mumiti yekudyara zvirimwa. Kusvika pa70 muzana inodzoserwa se "zvipfeko zvinotakurika" kudzokera kuAustria kana Africa uye kutengeswa ikoko nemitengo yemusika. "Chete kana tichienderera mberi tinoponesa zviwanikwa," anodaro Mörch. Mabhiriyoni mashanu kubva pamabhiriyoni manomwe vanhu vanovimba nechero ruoko.
Masokisi haawanzo kuwanikwa muzvitoro zvemitambo. Mugadziri Anita Steinwidder anotora masokisi akagadziriswa kubva kumakambani akaita seVolkshilfe uye anogadzira masiketi uye maratidziro emutengo wake. Inoshenwa pamwe chete nembesa mbiri mumusangano muVienna. Machira ekare anowanzogezwa uye saka ane hutano hwakawanda kupfuura zvipfeko zvitsva, ”anodaro Steinwidder. Ecolabel aisada kumuwana. Mugadziri anowana kunyanya hukama hwemagariro epfeko. Nekuti musimboti i "shreds chete" chete.
Kuburikidza neupcycling kune yakasarudzika fashoni
Kugadziridza uye kugadzira kudzoreredza kunogona kuve kwakaratidzirwa muiri-upcycled bhizinesi reRita Jelinek. Pano iwe unowana mabhegi kubva kune yekare majuzi mapaketi, zvishongo zvakagadzirwa kubva zvinogona kuvhara kana maketeni akagadzirwa kubva kuTurkey driftwood. "Inogona kunge iri nzira yakanyanya kunaka yekupfeka," anodaro Jelinek. Inosimudzira midziyo ingadai yakadzika mumarara. Pakati pevashandi vekunze vanogadzira kubva kuCambodia, Finland nePoland, avo vanoshanda nemachira kubva muindasitiri yezvokupfeka, kune mamwe mavara eAustria muchitoro, akadai seMirch, iyo inotenga masutu evakuru kubva kuVolkshilfe uye inovashandisa kugadzira mabhurukwa uye mapfekero. "Mwari anoziva zvazvaive," Jita Jelinek, achitarisa.
Fashoni yakakodzera zvinoreva kushandisa mupfungwa
Munyika dzinotaura chiGerman, network Networkful Economy yakagadzirwa nevadzidzi veBuddhist Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh. Pfungwa yakadzama ndeyekuti vanhu vese chikamu chehupfumi uye kuti vanogona kuchinja mararamiro ezuva nezuva nenzira yekuziva.
Kudhakwa kwedu kazhinji kwakanyanya. Isu tinotenga zvinhu zvinokurumidza kuwana zvisina hupenyu mumakabati kana guruva kumasherufu pasina isu kubatsirikana. Kuchenjera kudya kunoreva kuvaka hukama hune chinangwa uye hwusingaperi nezvinhu izvo zvatinorega muhupenyu hwedu.
Chii, sei, nei uye nei?
Muvambi wedandemutande Akachenjera zvehupfumi, Kai Romhardt, anopa zano pamusoro pekumbomira kutenga uye kubvunza mibvunzo mina. "Mubvunzo wekutanga ndiwo unotaura nezve chinhu. Chii chandiri kuda kutenga? Chii ichi chigadzirwa? Kune hutano hwakanaka kwandiri uye nharaunda? "Anodaro muBhudha. Mubvunzo wechipiri unoenderana nemamiriro epfungwa dzako. Izvo zvakakosha kuti utarise kune izvo zvauri kutenga panguva ino. Rega kumbomira kuti uzive maitiro emafambiro.
"Mubvunzo wechitatu nei?" Anotsanangura kudaro Romhardt. "Chii chinondifambisa? Ini ndinonzwa kuwedzera kutaridzika pandinotenga nguo iyi? Ndiri kutya kusave? "Mubvunzo wekupedzisira ndicho chiyero. Kana tangofunga nezvekutenga, Kai Romhardt inopa zano kupfeka nguo yacho nokungwarira. Kana tikazviparadzanisa nechidimbu chechipfeko, tinofanira kuzviita nehana uye nekuchenjerera. Saka enda kunzvimbo yekuunganidzira zvipfeko. Izvowo chimwe chikamu chepfungwa yemafashoni akanaka.
Photo / Video: Shutterstock, Faitware Foundation.
