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More than half of the tested license plates are not trustworthy - Greenpeace calls for strong EU law against greenwashing and rapid implementation of the EU supply chain law
Greenpeace offers orientation in the jungle of quality marks: In the report "Sign Tricks III - Quality mark guide for clothing" (https://act.gp/45R1eDP) the environmental organization took a closer look at 29 labels for clothing. The alarming result: more than half of the quality marks analyzed are not trustworthy. Above all, the own sustainability labels of large corporations such as H&M, Primark or Zara fall through. In response to widespread greenwashing, Greenpeace is demanding clear EU guidelines for green advertising and consistent implementation of the EU supply chain law.
“With the new quality mark guide for clothing, we are bringing light into the quality mark jungle. The international fast fashion chains in particular are trying to give themselves a green image, but the fashion business remains dirty and unfair. Workers around the world still toil for low wages. Plastic fibres, high emissions, dangerous chemicals and enormous mountains of waste characterize the industry. We provide orientation and show which quality marks keep what they promise and which are pure greenwashing PR.” says Lisa Tamina Panhuber, circular economy expert at Greenpeace in Austria. During the assessment, the Greenpeace experts examined in particular the environmental impact, transparency and controls of the quality marks. Ratings were based on a five-stage traffic light system from very trustworthy to absolutely not trustworthy. It is striking that there is hardly any quality mark that makes binding specifications for decelerating fast fashion. The short-lived trends, countless new collections and the business model of "disposable fashion" are the main problem of the fashion industry.
Of the 29 labels evaluated, Greenpeace classified five as green, nine as yellow and 15 as orange or red. The sustainability labels of fashion groups such as Primark Cares or Zara Join Life did particularly poorly. Five of the labels perform well in the Greenpeace study, particularly labels awarded by independent institutes. So, according to Greenpeace, labels like GOTS and IVN best, but also the program of the brand Vaude - Green shape trustworthy. The official seals of approval such as the EU Ecolabel and individual private initiatives are making the first good steps, but there are still gaps in the control of dangerous chemicals and the use of ecological fibers. Around half of the labels fail with poor efforts, a lack of transparency or weak control mechanisms, including the well-known quality mark of the Better Cotton Initiative. In particular, the sustainability labels of the big fashion groups like H&M, Primark, Mango, C&A and Zara are weak and untrustworthy. For example, with Primark Cares it is not transparent when a product receives the label and with Zara Join Life the supply chain is not transparent.
“Quality marks and green advertising are very popular in the industry because they boost sales. The consequences are often catastrophic, because cheaply produced clothing is often at the expense of the workers and the environment. Instead of false promises, what is needed now are high environmental and social standards that ensure that less clothing is produced that is more durable. This is the only way to reliably protect the environment and human rights,” said Panhuber. Greenpeace is calling for an EU law against greenwashing that prevents companies from making empty and misleading promises. In addition, the EU supply chain law must be implemented quickly. "The most environmentally friendly choice is always second hand, swap clothes, repair them and wear them for a long time," Panhuber recommends in conclusion.
The Quality Mark Guide "Sign Tricks III" from Greenpeace in Austria can be found at: https://act.gp/3qMGcWT
The report "The label scam” on quality marks on clothing can be found here: https://act.gp/43StXXD
Photo / Video: Sarah Brown on Unsplash.
